Bondar Rayner Vineyard Shiraz 2023

From the two oldest blocks on the Bondar-owned Rayner vineyard. The 1960 vines are on clay and limestone; the 1950s, being the major component, on deep sand with ironstone. Andre Bondar is never going to pursue rich styles, but this bottling usually has a little more supple generosity. That’s still true here, with a sultry feel to the dark-fruited nose in blackberry, boysenberry and black cherry, and to the silky, saline palate. There’s also a malty, tarry note, master stock, kelp, violets and iron. The cool year, the third in a row, plays into the house credo, balancing fruit depth and intensity with pep and floral lift. It’s a very good release. 96 points – Marcus Ellis, Halliday Wine Companion