The Wanderer Upper Yarra Pinot Noir 2024

The only pinot noir that sees whole bunches, 20% and new oak, 30%. It isn’t, however, bunchy or oaky, and is the prettiest and most elegant of the three. The aromatics are very complex with Middle Eastern spice mix, sweet red and dark fruits, violets, autumn leaves and a dusting of vanilla. Supple and pure, the most finessed wine in the range and the most harmonised. I haven’t tried an older bottle, but I believe that not only does this have great ageing potential, but it will become phenomenally complex with bottle age. Ironically, this is utterly gorgeous right now, certainly the most approachable, with a seamless, ease of drinking quality about it. An absolute fine wine bargain. Norris at Waters Wine Co

Single vineyard wine from Yellingbo, in the Upper Yarra Valley. Cane pruned MV6 clone on free draining volcanic red soil with Nth Eastern aspect at 200m elevation. 20% whole bunches, remainder not crushed for retention of whole berries. Cold soak and fermentation in open fermenters. Wild ferment. Pumped over and hand plunged. Elevage in large format French oak, 30% new Damy Alliers, for 11 months on lees. No fining or filtration. Estate bottled. Producer’s Notes