Mac Forbes Coldstream Village Pinot Noir 2022


Beautiful pretty aromatics of poached plum, rhubarb, strawberry and whole bunch spice. Very complex shape and texture. Sleek, focused, linear and round. Tangy fruits, savoury, with grippy tannins, loosening to velvet towards the close. Beautiful wine, better with food. Waters Wine Co


From two vineyards on the valley floor. Made with 10-20% whole bunches, three to four weeks on skins before being pressed to seasoned oak for 11 months. A light ruby red. Aromas of freshly poached strawberries, spices and a hint of rose petals make for the most accessible, at this stage, of the five Village pinots in 2022. Already delicious with its generous yet gentle palate and supple tannins. Just a lovely drink. 95 Points Halliday Wine Companion


At the entrance to the Valley floor, this subregion is low elevation with grey/loam clay based soils. Ripping winds from the north slow transpiration in summer but the cooler overnight temperatures aid the plants ability to regulate after hot days.
Ironstone/mudstone is a consistently big influence, building full mid-palate structure with soft, melting tannins.


Delicate aromatics of soft talcy florals and pulpy red plum. The palate is fleshy with dark red fruits, baked rhubarb and a touch of savoury cacao. Firm structure across the mid palate melts to a generous lingering finish. Producer’s notes


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Producer Profile

Opulence,  fresh sweet ripe fruit, silk pillow structures and rendered palates, such are the wines of Gembrook Hill. One of the Yarra Valley’s greatest producers, Gembrook Hill has been producing some of the most gorgeous, sensuous and absorbing wines since 1983. Like much of the upper Yarra, Gembrook Hill and surrounds are home to some of valley’s most coveted sites. Cooler and wetter than much of the Valley.

The estate is a single vineyard, planted predominantly to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and a small proportion of Sauvignon Blanc. Sitting in a natural amphitheatre, the soils are rich and red of volcanic origin. The rich soils offset what can nonetheless be a dry site, the vines are unirrigated, with excellent drainage, but also good water holding capacity. This is of great benefit as Gembrook Hill’s use of whole bunches is pioneering. Stems will not ripen, even if the fruit is ripe, if they are under hydric stress, hence the enormous benefit derived from the rich soils. Many red wines in the Yarra Valley are bunchy and stemmy, a result of unripe stems, no matter what the sugar and grape tannin levels are.

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc and a sparkling wine are all at the apex of Australian quality wine, a remarkable achievement considering the differences of varietals and styles coming from a single site. The site is clearly a great one, as it performs beautifully, even in the most trying conditions and from time to time, winemaking boundaries are pushed. Their “top” Pinot Noir, JKM, named after co-founder June Marks, is the apotheosis of the Gembrook style. Perfectly ripe fruit, about a third whole bunches and a third new oak. Rich, full bodied, luxurious, floral, spicy, silky, and with high toned acidity. Balanced, with all the elements threaded and driving together, the flavours lasting long in the mouth.

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