Mac Forbes Coldstream Village Pinot Noir 2022

Producer Profile

Opulence,  fresh sweet ripe fruit, silk pillow structures and rendered palates, such are the wines of Gembrook Hill. One of the Yarra Valley’s greatest producers, Gembrook Hill has been producing some of the most gorgeous, sensuous and absorbing wines since 1983. Like much of the upper Yarra, Gembrook Hill and surrounds are home to some of valley’s most coveted sites. Cooler and wetter than much of the Valley.

The estate is a single vineyard, planted predominantly to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and a small proportion of Sauvignon Blanc. Sitting in a natural amphitheatre, the soils are rich and red of volcanic origin. The rich soils offset what can nonetheless be a dry site, the vines are unirrigated, with excellent drainage, but also good water holding capacity. This is of great benefit as Gembrook Hill’s use of whole bunches is pioneering. Stems will not ripen, even if the fruit is ripe, if they are under hydric stress, hence the enormous benefit derived from the rich soils. Many red wines in the Yarra Valley are bunchy and stemmy, a result of unripe stems, no matter what the sugar and grape tannin levels are.

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc and a sparkling wine are all at the apex of Australian quality wine, a remarkable achievement considering the differences of varietals and styles coming from a single site. The site is clearly a great one, as it performs beautifully, even in the most trying conditions and from time to time, winemaking boundaries are pushed. Their “top” Pinot Noir, JKM, named after co-founder June Marks, is the apotheosis of the Gembrook style. Perfectly ripe fruit, about a third whole bunches and a third new oak. Rich, full bodied, luxurious, floral, spicy, silky, and with high toned acidity. Balanced, with all the elements threaded and driving together, the flavours lasting long in the mouth.