Moreau-Naudet Chablis Les Pargues Vieilles Vignes 2022

Diam. Les Pargues is a Chablis lieu-dit on a ridge between the Montmains and Vosgros Premiers Crus. It has the same exposure as Vaillons and Montmains, so it’s a handy site. The story goes that it was initially classified 1er Cru (pre-AOC) before being largely abandoned during the war when there was a labour shortage. This meant it missed out on the status it deserved when the AOC was formed. Regardless of this story’s accuracy, locals rightly speak highly of the site: the position and thin, stony soils give an intense and mineral wine. Contributing to the quality of this wine is the vine age in Moreau’s tiny parcel (50-plus years old on average) and the extremely low yields (15-25 hl/ha is typical). Vinified with only 10% barrels, this is exceptionally vivid: layered and succulent, rocky and energetic with a long, briny finish. It’s a wine that always bats well above its station and is as engaging as any 1er Cru in this offer.

92 points, Christy Canterbury MW, Tim Atkin Burgundy 2022 Special Report