The 2019 Saint-Bris Exogyra Virgula, which had been bottled just that morning, offers pungent gooseberry and asparagus scents on a nose that seems to grab the olfactory senses. The palate is fresh and clean, more linear than the aromatics suggest, with dill and white pepper notes toward the spicy finish. Fascinating as always. Try to tuck a few bottles away, because it ages beautifully. 91 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
Sauvignon Blanc. Exogyra virgula is the name of the comma-shaped, limestone fossils of ancient shellfish that are so abundant in the soils of this part of the world. Kimmeridgian limestone of this kind brings a wonderful salinity and smoky freshness to the wines of northern Burgundy—a character we readily associate with Chablis, and one we can also find in this wine.
The old vines that gift this wine are situated on north-facing slopes (170-200 metres above sea level) that are literally carpeted with exogyra virgula fossils. They are sélection massale vines (as opposed to clones), and this, combined with the pure limestone soils, the farming, and the cooler climate, result in a style of wine that has nothing to do with what we tend to associate with Sauvignon Blanc in the west.