The suite of 2017 Rieslings from Wagner Stempel are the best ever released from this property. One of my favourite producers already, it is hard to imagine improvements. Well, the proof is always in the glass. These are great wines and offer remarkable value. The 2017 Porphyr is a more refined offering, but still has that engine of exotic fruit and textural line. It certainly doesn’t display the exoticism that has become a hallmark of this property, rather, pure, classic flavours. Citrus and stone fruits wash precisely over a bed of savoury nougat. The wine’s subtle to begin with and then thunders to a close. This is really, really good. A must buy this year.
The nougat and white-chocolate notes on the nose are light years removed from the norm for a riesling from northern Germany. However, on the palate there’s exactly the crystalline clarity, peachy fruit and citrusy freshness that you expect. Long, intense finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. Screw cap. jamessuckling.com, 19th Sep 2018. 93 Points