Stargazer Coal River Valley Riesling 2022

$35.00

A tense feinherb style that reminds me of the Saar and is a developing style in Tasmania. Intense, almost shockingly so, yet tip toe balanced by the tiny amount of residual sugar. White flowers, green mango, pink grapefruit, lemon and juicy lime. Compact and tight, yet with a wide plane of flavour. Yellow fruits, citrus and stone fruits are soaring, mouthwatering, flavour gliding to all points of the mouth. Tangy, silky, saline and mineral, the kiss of sweetness softens and carries the chiselled finish. Waters Wine Co

After many years in the Hunter Valley, winemaker Samantha Connew has established herself as one of the brightest lights in the Tasmanian wine scene. Here she turns her attention to Coal River Valley riesling. There’s almost a Germanic feel to this wine with its pristine white peach, lime juice and green apple crunch, along with hints of beeswax, almond blossom, makrut lime, Epsom salts and sea spray. Precise and focused with crystalline acidity and pitch-perfect tension as it saunters the ridgeline of fruit sweetness and acidity finishing dry with impressive detail, clarity and drive. Astounding value. 96 points – Dave Brookes, Halliday Wine Companion 2024

This wine teeters on the brink between ‘dry’ and ‘off dry’ – simply put it’s just superbly balanced in terms of acid and fruit.

All the grapes are sourced from a single vineyard in the Tea Tree subregion of Coal River, planted in 2004 at a vineyard density 5000 vines per hectare on predominantly dark clay on Jurassic dolerite.

Hand picked, destemmed and left on skins for 8 hours before being pressed off to both tank and seasoned barrel (10%) for fermentation. A small parcel of Riesling is also fermented on skins then added to the overall blend later. Samantha stops the tank ferment when she feels the sugar to acid balance is right (approx two months) and then leaves on lees for 2 months, stirring fortnightly. A Riesling with natural acid (2.92 PH) and with 7.4g grams residual it’s an absolute pleasure of a wine that showcases the potential of the Coal River for this variety.

 

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Stargazer, in a very short space of time, has become one of the most exciting prospects in Tasmania.

Founder/owner/winemaker and grape grower, Samantha Connew, released her first Stargazer wines in 2012, after previously working with Wirra Wirra as chief winemaker. Initially her fruit was sourced from small parcels in the Coal River Valley and still is, but in 2016 Sam purchased an 11 hectare property, with 1 hectare of Riesling and Pinot Noir. She increased plantings to 3 hectares in 2017, more Pinot and Chardonnay. With a relentlessness born out of passion, true grit and early success, she has increased plantings in 2021, with additional Pinot Noir, Gamay, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurtztraminer. No doubt, there is more to come.

The vineyard is farmed sustainably. Every site, everywhere in the world is unique, but much of Tasmania is covered by brown dermosol soil over Jurassic dolerite. Free draining, but with excellent water holding capacity, fertility and high calcium content, it produces healthy crops of thick skinned grapes. Tannin management is the holy grail for Australian Pinot Noir, most being delightfully fruity, but without the requisite tannic power necessary for great Pinot. Tasmania, evidenced by producers such as Home Hill and Stargazer, are teasing not only longer, more refined tannins, but tannins of grip and presence that hold the palate and parade the fruit.

The whites all possess high levels of natural acids, tension, chisel, texture and flesh. There is a Pinot Meunier/Pinot Noir blend called Rada and a straight Pinot Noir. The Rada (when available) is juicy, bright, red fruited with pastry notes, delicate tannin and bracing acidity. The pinot noir, compact, spicy and wildly complex. Full bodied, structured and very powerful, it’s wide in the mouth and texturally silky, before the tannins fully assert themselves with an authoritative grip.

Stargazer’s range is unbeatable. The prices are a steal, truly fine wines of this quality are and should be more expensive. Sam Connew’s winemaking is an exercise in controlled virtuosity, bringing nuance and delicacy threaded with breadth, richness, structure and thrust.

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