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Schafer-Frohlich Felsenberg Riesling GG 2020


Perhaps the most profoundly primal of the Frohlich GG Rieslings, a real statement of the stony, smokey, mineral, herbal, textural and tonic-esque grip. But aside from drama, there’s prettiness, with seasoning nettles, bergamot and clove. Without floral notes, but with a level of refinement that is unsurpassed by its peers. Citrus peel, preserved lime, grapefruit, blood orange and yellow peach, the fruits becoming darker with warmth and aeration. Focused attack, direct, full bodied and pinpoint puckering, it’s like looking through a telescope, then, looking up. Remarkable. Waters Wine Co

Welcome to the smoke hole! However, this mineral masterpiece also has intense orange-peel character and, with aeration, dark spicy notes emerge. Intense, grapefruity acidity drives the very focused and muscular palate. So much drive and drama at the finish, which may be too much for some, but we are delighted by this originality. From organically grown grapes with Fair’n Green certification. Drink or hold. 96pts Stuart Piggott

The 2020er Felsenberg Riesling GG, as it is referred to on the consumer label, is still marked by a bacon-driven reduction as well as some pungent smoky scents of gunpowder. It then gradually opens up to reveal its refined nose of lime tree, pear, apricot, orange blossom, and yellow peach. The wine is comparatively light-weighted on the linear yet refined palate. Some bracing acidity lifts up the aromatics in the very long and smoky finish. The aftertaste is all about racy lime and spices. This racy and bone-dry Riesling will please lovers of precise expressions of the genre. 2024-2032. 92pts Mosel Fine Wines Issue 58 July 2021

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