Terroir Sense Fronteres Brisat 2017

The dark-straw color with orange reflexes and the bold tannins on the palate mean that this is, in some sense, an orange wine. Lots of nuts and dried herbs, but also some dried apricot on the nose. Quite long. Mostly grenache blanc plus some macabeu. Drink or hold. 92 points, JamesSuckling.com

Brisat is made from 75% Grenache Blanc and 25% Macabeu from 15-35 year old vines around Capçanes. The vines are grown at between 300 and 350 metres. The fruit is harvested early – Montsant permits harvesting at 11% for whites which gives Huber flexibility to pick earlier than in Priorat. This 2017 finished at just 12%.

The fruit was whole-bunch fermented, nothing was destemmed or crushed, before resting on lees for six months in tank. Bottled unfiltered. Fleshy yet also skinsy and with plenty of powdery grip, this is truly a wine of the new Spain, in terms of the complexity and style. Very, very smart. Serve it with a plate of Jamón Ibérico and your day will be made.

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