Unlike most of Montlouis, which is on clay and flint, this four hectare vineyard (planted in 1998) lies on a pocket of clay and Bournais limestone, the stone from which it takes its name. It’s a beautiful site, certainly one of Montlouis’ finest. Chidaine’s vinification here is exactly the same as his Clos de Breuil and Les Choisilles (hand harvested/natural ferment/11 months on fine lees in used, 600 litre barrels) yet the wine is clearly different — an altogether more ‘Vouvray’ expression of Montlouis with a powdery, chalky structure that so clearly reflects its soils and location. Les Bournais was one of the domaine’s ‘lucky’ parcels in terms of the frost, perhaps due to its proximity to the river. Yet even here volumes were tiny and all available fruit from the Franc de Pied parcel ended up in this cuvée as well. It’s a wine of stunning purity and control, almost (grand cru) Riesling-like in its exquisite shape and powerful, echoing finish.