A Portland émigré, Brendan Stater-West joined Domaine Guiberteau in 2011, going on to become an indispensable part of the team. In early 2015 he took control of a single hectare of organically-farmed vines in Bizay, Les Chapaudaises, located just south of Brézé, in order to make some of his own wine. The vineyard, replanted in 2002, is next door to the Clos de Guichaux below, and the soils comprise a skinny layer of loamy clay over the classic limestone of the region, tuffeau. This first release was fermented naturally in stainless steel and then aged in used, large format barrels (sourced from Louis-Benjamin Dagueneau) for 18 months. It’s a beauty of a first release – tightly wound, earthy, pure and tension driven in the Roches Neuves mould – from a terroir that the young vigneron notes is finely tuned for “the style of Chenin that I am crazy for: elegant, pure, vertical, with salinity from the limestone.” And that sums the wine up beautifully.