Verget Chablis Cuvée Les Envers et Contre Tout 2019


This explosive Chablis was drawn from a range of parcels located on the cooler, north-facing slopes of the Premiers Crus of Côte de Léchet, Vaillons and Montmains—a distinct advantage in a solar vintage like 2019. Harvested at optimal ripeness in mid-September, Guffens fermented this wine in his bespoke horizontal stainless-steel tanks, which offer the same lees-to-wine ratio as oak barrels. Here, the lees can be worked delicately with nitrogen, without introducing any oxygen into the vessel. The wine was aged in concrete tanks on its lees for a further 18 months with Guffens looking to exploit the wine’s fresh, juicy acidity to cut through the density of 2019’s flesh with focus and bite.
As you would expect from this address, it’s a multi-dimensional and exuberant expression of Chablis, with flavours that are more floral and citrus than mineral. The texture ripples with brightness, yet it’s the layering of fruit and flavour that sings on the palate: white stone fruit, yellow florals, a touch of smoky reduction and some crème fraîche from lees contact. Great length, too, studded with ripe citrus and a twist of bitter kernel.
The name translates as ‘against all odds’. We’re not sure what Guffens is getting at here: sometimes it is better not to know what is going on in this eccentric genius’ mind!


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