Saumaize-Michelin Pouilly Fuisse Clos Sur la Roche 1er Cru 2020

The estate’s flagship wine, with 1.6ha of vines. The parcel starts from the bottom of the slope to the top, with the oldest vines at the bottom. The coolest and rockiest part of the vineyard is at the top, getting hotter and the soils getting richer as you travel down the slope. Most producers would be tempted to cut and dice such as parcel, but I’m pretty happy this hasn’t been done. There would be a great deal of better, balanced and more complete wines coming out of Burgundy if there were less emphasis placed on tiny parcels. I digress. Extremely complex, with tangy citrus, bright stone and succulent orchard fruits. Wood spice, cream, jasmine, a sprinkling of sage and honey. Full bodied, concentrated and expansive. Deep and fanning, massive flavour, yet well framed by high quality oak and bright acidity. Rolling and dramatic, firming up and phenolic towards the close. Still quite elemental, wonderful and promises to be extraordinary. Waters Wine Co

Discreet if perceptible wood sets off a similar if slightly more floral suffused nose. The rich, concentrated and overtly powerful big-bodied flavors brim with sappy dry extract while concluding in a citrusy and decidedly dry finale. This is an out-sized but well-balanced Pouilly-Fuissé. Drink: 2025+. 90-93 Points – Allen Meadows, burghound.com

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