Patrick Sullivan Bull Swamp Chardonnay 2023

Patrick Sullivan Bull Swamp Chardonnay 2023

$85.00

The bold and the beautiful. Sexy aromatics of spring jasmine, sunflower, pumpkin seed, citrus peel, breadcrumbs and mixed spice. So chardonnay, yet quixotic. Tense and coiled, with a ridge of green apple, flavours tumbling either side. White peach, nectarine, ruby grapefruit, mandarin, preserved citrus and tabouli. A tension of opposites, reserved for only the world’s best wines. Rich and full bodied, round and fleshy, with the green apple ridge running the full length. There’s a meringue like quality, of flavour and texture, the acidity folded in and balancing the next level intensity of flavours. And to finish – a saline twist. One of the very best. Waters Wine Co

 

There’s a generosity to the ’23 chardonnays, yet they come packaged with steely, pristine acidity. There’s a succulence here with flavours of poached peaches, dried pears, ginger powder and an appealing honeycomb-nougat, even an umami-like chicken-stock character. Pockets of lemon zest, and the acidity brings it all together, ensuring a long finish with refreshment guaranteed 95 Points James Halliday Wine Companion 

 

The Bullswamp vineyard was planted in 1982 by the Farrington family in the early 1980’s on the very edge of the Warragul township. The Bullswamp Chardonnay comes from the oldest plantings of P58 clone on a north facing aspect of the site. Deep rich volcanic soils nourish what are dry grown grape vines. Elevation is 100m and this section of the vineyard receives the least amount of airflow relative to our other sites. The northerly aspect provides full sunlight and exposure resulting in powerful, rich fruit.

The fruit is hand harvested into 15kg baskets and transferred to the winery. The fruit is whole cluster crushed into the press and drained off into tank for settling. Primary fermentation takes place in barrique (30% new) over 3 weeks followed by complete malolactic fermentation. Lees stirring occurs twice towards the end of primary fermentation then once more at the completion of malolactic fermentation. 250 case produced. Producer’s notes

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Every winemaker has an ambition to express the complex notion of vineyard and vintage. But how best to do this? Patrick Sullivan works with chardonnay and pinot noir across various sites in Victoria. Both varieties have the advantage of producing stunning wines from an abundance of method and technique, in both the vineyard and cellar. Wine, like any other facet of human existence, experiences fads and fashions, yet the wines crafted by Patrick Sullivan are made in such a way to highlight the essence of varietal as much as tease out the nuances of vineyard.

Both colours are opulent, round in shape, with ripe fruit, firm structures and integrated acids. Vineyards are farmed with biodynamic or organic principles and the grapes are not picked until they reach full phenolic ripeness. The reds are completely destemmed after being chilled down and left to ferment naturally. Fermentation is kept cool, lasting for up to three weeks, before being pressed off into old French oak. Sweet and tangy red fruits, round in shape, spicy, rich tannins and a savouriness uncommon in Australian pinot noir. We often forget how powerful and full bodied pinot noir can be, that intense tight threading of grace and strength. Patrick Sullivan’s are amongst Australia’s deepest and most haunting, charming and powerful pinots.

The chardonnays remind me of Burgundy 20 years ago. Chardonnay, so naturally voluptuous, rich, textural and palate coating that was seemingly, effortlessly allowed to express itself. Not to put too fine a point on it, here we have a range of chardonnays that are rich, full bodied and so you don’t miss it, shaped like a Titian nude. Grapes are chilled down, whole cluster crushed, before being transferred to French oak (30% new) for natural fermentation. Malolactic fermentation is also allowed to take place and the lees are stirred twice. Winemakers chasing acid, steel and leanness would most probably be surprised at the abundance of acidity and freshness these. These chardonnays are not illusions of Burgundy – rather the teachings and learnings of the old masters for a young country.

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