“Offering up aromas of nutmeg, pear, crisp yellow apple, fresh bread and smoke, the 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière is medium to full-bodied, layered and chalky, with a bright spine of acidity and impressive structuring extract cloaked in an enveloping core of fruit. This is another serious, structured wine from Lamy.” 92-94 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“The 2019 Saint-Aubin Clos de la Chatenière 1er Cru expresses its terroir exquisitely on the nose, displaying wonderful mineralité and precision. The palate is well balanced, with a silver bead of acidity, and tensile from start to finish, yet expanding right at the end with mouthwatering sappiness. I remember this being impressive out of barrel last year, and now in bottle, Lamy has successful translated all that potential.” 94 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
“Pale lemon and lime, this wine is softer warmer and richer, with a full pear and peach fruit, without heat. Fine acid balance to support the flesh, and long classy fruit to finish, re-centring on the white. Very good.” 92-94 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy
This is another of the Lamy benchmarks and perhaps his most famous wine. The clos is a specific site, enclosed by dry-stone walls within the larger Chatenière vineyard in St-Aubin. Lamy has 1.25 hectares here and the vines are 60 years old. For all intents and purposes, this is a monopole, as Lamy is the only grower able to bottle a separate wine from this clos and to label it accordingly (Colin-Morey is the only other grower with a small parcel and he blends it into his La Chatenière bottling). It’s a south-facing vineyard, set just back and around the bend from En Remilly and Les Murgers des Dents de Chien. It is worked entirely by hand because of the vineyard’s 40% slope and incredibly rocky soils.
This gradient and the southern aspect of Clos de la Chatenière ensure the vines receive plenty of light, while the rocky, limestone-rich soils (20cm of rocky topsoil over hard, compact limestone) give the wines a piercing minerality that perfectly offsets the low-yielding intensity. It’s another superb example of Saint-Aubin that will knock the socks off most 1er Cru Chassagne and Puligny. Like the 2018, the 2019 is an approachable example of this wine, reflecting the vintage and the low yields. On the other hand, there is considerably more depth and extract on offer than in the 2018, suggesting that the wine will be even more exciting in five-plus years.
Out of stockProducer: Hubert Lamy