This is another of the Lamy benchmarks and perhaps his most famous wine. The Clos is a specific site, enclosed by dry-stone walls within the larger Chatenière vineyard in St-Aubin. Lamy has 1.25 hectares here and the vines are 60 years old. For all intents and purposes this is a monopole, as Lamy is the only grower able to bottle a separate wine from this site and to label it accordingly (Colin-Morey is the only other grower with a small parcel and he blends it into his La Chatenière bottling). It’s a south-facing vineyard, set just back and around the bend from En Remilly and Les Murgers des Dents de Chien. It is worked entirely by hand because of the vineyard’s 40% slope and incredibly rocky soils.
The 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière bursts with aromas of waxy citrus rind, yellow orchard fruit, clear honey and wheat toast. Medium to full-bodied, round and textural, it’s layered and enveloping, with fine concentration and a long, saline finish. Lamy notes that his old vines in this lieu-dit (which is warmer than, for example, Derrière chez Edouard) tend to produce lots of small, shot berries. 91-93 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Planted 1964. Brisk primrose colour. A little gunflint reduction. A beautifully balanced juicy white fruit with plenty of flesh at the back. This is not one of the ultra-tense cuvées, more a question of generosity of fruit backed by a totally correct acidity. In harmony. 91-93 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy