Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin Premier Clos de la Chateniere 2017

This is another of the Lamy benchmarks and perhaps his most famous wine. The Clos is a specific site, enclosed by dry-stone walls, within the larger Chatenière vineyard in St-Aubin. Lamy has 1.25 hectares in the Clos and the vines here are 60 years old. For all intents and purposes, this is a monopole, as Lamy is the only grower able to bottle a separate wine from this site and to label it accordingly. It’s another spellbinding example of Saint-Aubin that will knock the socks off most 1er Cru Chassagne and Puligny.

The 2017 Saint-Aubin Clos de la Chatenière 1er Cru comes from 1.25 hectares of vine planted in 1964. This is more primal and reduced on the nose making it difficult to read at the time of my visit. The palate is one of the most powerful from Lamy this year, impressive in terms of white with flecks of ginger on the finish. This will be difficult to resist once in bottle. 91-93 points, Neal Martin, Vinous

Pale primrose, exceptionally dense bouquet, with the usual reductive tension. How does he do it? This has a superb density while still being reflective of the sunshine, some ripe yellow fruit, absolutely in a state of grace. Fresh pears too. 93 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy

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