Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru les Murgers des Dents de Chien 2023

“The 2023 Saint-Aubin Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 1er Cru comes from 40-year-old vines that suffer from court-noué; nevertheless it still produced 45hl/ha in this vintage. This is another cuvée that evokes images of the sea on the nose – hints of oyster shell and iodine, dew-dappled green apples. The palate is very well balanced with a silver thread of acidity. Real weight here, gaining breadth towards the finish with a peppery aftertaste. Delicious.” 93 points, Neal Martin, Vinous

“A smaller, more direct aromatic. More concentration and more stony minerals are in focus in the mouth. Exploding across the palate in the finish. A chalky wine – a great wine – keep it for a few years…” Bill Nanson, The Burgundy Report

A murger is a pile of stones or a wall made from rocks extracted from a vineyard’s soil. The vineyard name (roughly translating to “the wall of dog’s teeth”) evokes the fragmented, jagged stones that abound on the soil. It’s a rocky, hillside vineyard that borders the 1er Cru Puligny vines of Champ Gain and sits above Montrachet. Then again, such mapping can be deceptive; when you stand in the vineyard, it feels totally different—higher, more sheltered and somehow wilder than both the vineyards mentioned. Lamy’s vines were planted in 1985 and are typically affected by millerandage, resulting in low yields and more opulence. Lamy has only 0.25 hectares, so we only get a few cases. Despite the site’s high altitude, the wine is always fleshy and deep. As with all the Lamy wines, you’ll find plenty of intense, chalky minerality, too, but it is nonetheless Lamy’s most hedonistic expression. The 2023 is once again brilliant.

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