Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chateniere Vieilles Vignes Blanc 2022

Clos de la Chatenière is one of Lamy’s prestige terroirs and historically its best-known wine. The clos is enclosed by dry-stone walls within the larger Chatenière vineyard in St-Aubin. Lamy has 1.25 hectares here, and the vines are 60 years old. For all intents and purposes, this is a monopole, as Lamy is the only grower able to bottle a separate wine from here and label it accordingly. Colin-Morey is the only other grower with a small parcel, which he blends into his La Chatenière bottling. But the walls and location of the clos (apart from the age of vines and farming and winemaking) mean the two wines should not be compared directly. Regardless, this is a high, steep, south-facing vineyard set just back and around the bend from En Remilly and Les Murgers des Dents de Chien. It is worked entirely by hand because of the vineyard’s 40% slope and incredibly rocky soils.

The gradient and south-facing aspect of Clos de la Chatenière ensure the vines receive plenty of light. At the same time, the rocky, limestone-rich soils (20cm of rocky topsoil over hard, compact limestone) give the wines a piercing minerality that perfectly offsets the low-yielding intensity. The 2022 is a finer, more ethereal example of this vineyard, with great harmony between the fruit and mineral elements of its persona and a finish that is rocky, powdery and sculpted as though from rock. In short, a great Clos de la Chatenière!

“A smaller nose – fresh, pure and of depth – just smaller but also a little floral. Wider and more intense in the mouth – again a chiselled wine like the Remilly but with extra finishing intensity – that’s so mouth-watering in the finish – I love that – finishing chalky. Keep it 2-3 years before attacking – bravo!” Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report

“The 2022 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière is showing brilliantly, offering up aromas of pear, orange oil, toasted hazelnuts and warm stones. Medium to full-bodied, dense and satiny, with a layered core of fruit, chalky structuring extract and a long, precise finish, I sometimes think that this cuvée—from old, virused vines in one of Saint-Aubin’s most historic terroirs for Chardonnay—is one of the most underrated in Lamy’s range.” 94+ points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

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