The Tris des Hauts de Vignes is at the summit of the Guffens-Heynen range. This wine is an assemblage of only the free run-juices of four passes through the vineyard (to pick only what’s perfectly ripe) from the Vergisson crus of Sûr La Roche, Les Croux, Les Petits Croux and Les Crays. This ensures only pristine and fully ripe fruit goes into this wine and then only the finest part of the juice. Guffens uses a customised Coquard Champagne press so he can be extremely precise and gentle. The wine undergoes a meticulous, coddled production that coaxes something remarkable and rare from the low-yielding vines. Absolutely none of the pressings are blended back in and, as with all Guffens’ wines, it is neither fined nor filtered. It’s concentrated and ripe but also super tight and so mineral with an otherworldly intensity of fresh nectarine and peach, struck flint, and plenty of rocky, chalky flavours and grip. A huge, spicy, chalky kick to close. This is powerhouse white Burgundy.