Guffens-Heynen Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Premiers Jus des Premiers Crus 2020


“This is a blend of two-thirds La Roche, where the soils contain too much active calcium, and one-third Les Crays, where they contain too much red clay: together,” Guffens jokes, “they make our answer to Montrachet.” That this is far from a vain boast is immediately apparent upon tasting the 2020 Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Premiers Jus des Premiers Crus, which unfurls in the glass with scents of iodine, crisp green orchard fruit, freshly baked bread, white flowers, orange oil and wet stones. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, its textural attack segues into a strikingly incisive, tightly wound mid-palate that’s girdled by racy acids and underpinned by chalky dry extract. Long and penetrating, it’s searingly intense. In short, this will go down in the annals as one of the finest wines of Jean-Marie Guffens’ storied career.” 96-98 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Vergisson is home to a number of excellent, limestone-rich vineyards. Les Roches—an idyllic, high-altitude site, on the softer incline of the rock—is one of her finest. Aside from its ability to make stunning Chardonnay with more cut than Sweeney Todd, this is simply one of those vineyards that is so visually striking, you can just tell by looking at it that it makes outstanding wine.

From seventy-year-old vines rooted in some of the most mineral soils of the region, Guffens works with three parcels covering both northerly and southerly exposures. For its part Les Crays is a another beautifully located vineyard, sitting mid slope on the steep belly of La Roche de Vergisson. The vineyard’s cool soils—made up of limestone scree—bring a beautiful mineral lift and structural austerity to this blend. I think the note below says it all.

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