Defaix’s Petit Chablis is drawn from Kimmeridgian-based soils unlike most Petit that generally comes from the low-lying sites on Portlandian limestone to the north of the commune. It’s not necessarily the type of limestone but its location that makes the difference, with Defaix’s small parcel being very well situated for this level, high on the slopes of Milly. With tiny volumes due to 2016’s devastating frost – the Petit Chablis was cropped at grand cru levels of 30 hl/ha – this year’s release will not last long. With juicy apple and stone fruit aromas and flavours, pulpy texture, a vibrant, cool close, it’s a wine “on the fruit” as the French would say. It reflects both the depth and freshness of the vintage, and the cool soils of the region. Outstanding value.