Defaix’s Chablis villages is drawn from four parcels of mature, 30+-year-old vines , situated around Milly and Poinchy, on the left bank of the Serein river. Certified organic, the wine is fermented wild and aged on fine lees for ten months in glass-lined tanks. While quantities are tiny this year, (the Domaine lost 70% across their holdings and this Chablis was cropped at a paltry 20 hl/ha), the quality is simply superb. It’s a perfectly ripe, poised and vibrantly fresh Chablis with juicy, mixed citrus fruit (sappy lime, grapefruit and lemon peel) and a stony, steely freshness coursing the length of the palate. A terrific Chablis and another of outstanding value from Sylvain and Didier Defaix.