Within the cold, west-facing Biaunes lieu-dit there is a small parcel of Chardonnay (the Côtes des Bar is overwhelmingly planted to Pinot Noir) that Gautherot planted wild, without preparing the soils, amongst the native vegetation. Established in 2000, with massale cuttings from Anselme Selosse and from Dauvissat’s Valmur grand cru vineyard, this portion of the vineyard is now the origin of what Antonio Galloni calls “one of the most beautiful and distinctive wines in Champagne.” The vines here yield only 15-20 hl/ha each year – one of the keys to the quality and intensity on offer. Fermentation is wild and has traditionally taken place in a mix of Burgundian pièce and 400-litre fût, purchased from vigneron friends in Burgundy. The new vintages now include a portion of fruit fermented and raised in Georgian amphora. As with the Fidèle, this wine spent roughly 15 months in bottle, sur lattes, before being disgorged by hand (zero dosage) in October 2016. It’s a super mineral, nutty wine with crunchy stone fruits. There is lovely, pulpy fruit but also racy, crunchy acidity and terrific length with a twist of pleasant astringency. It takes you (the 60 miles) to grand cru Chablis and back again.