2014 base with 40% reserve wines going back to 2004, disgorged September 2017. Latitude is a 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay from vineyards on the southern side of Vertus. These are roughly on the same ‘Latitude’ and the name also hints at the breadth of texture that the wines from these sites (having more clay in the soil) tend to offer up. In the cellar Larmandier uses mostly large format casks (almost all the wood now comes from Stockinger in Austria) and less and less steel tanks. The alcoholic and malolactic fermentations take place without inoculation, and there is no fining or filtration. Bottle maturation takes place in the underground cellars over a period of more than two years, and each bottle is disgorged manually, six months before being released, and dosed at low, extra brut levels. Pure and mineral, the most recent bottling offers cut-diamond precision, citrusy, chalky energy and a succulent, textured core. In short it is a classic ‘Larmandier’ wine that is all class. Dosage is 3-4 grams per litre.