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$180.00
One of the remarkable facets of Gosset Champagne’s is their ability to transmit the house style of harmony, richness and elegance, with a beam of lightness, the final balancing act. Anzac biscuit, peach, grapefruit, tangy red fruits and gentle spice aromatics. Full bodied, yet with a twist of incredible finesse. Spring jasmine, rose petals, savoury spice, citrus zest, fleshy red fruits and woody mushroom. Very fine and totally enveloping, with an almost mesmeric quality. The sheer concentration, balance and length make for a great Champagne, the balancing lightness a masterstroke. Waters Wine Co
Composed of 59 % Pinot Noir and 41 % Chardonnay from Ambonnay, Avenay, Avize, Bisseuil, Chavot, Cramant, Moussy, Noé les Mallets, Pierry, Trépail, Verzy, Villers Marmery. Bottled with 4 grams/litre dosage. After disgorgement, the bottles are returned to the cellars to rest for at least 6 months to allow the wine to smoothly assimilate the dosage.
‘The inviting, ripe scent of ripe quince, aromatic cherry notes, candied cherry and shortcrust pastry immediately sets the tone and promises fullness. As befits a Gosset, the fullness of the aromas is present, and on the palate it remains absolutely taut, fine and filigree. Balance and elegance are in the foreground. The lively freshness is renewed again and again with every tiny, bursting, creamy CO2 pearl. It’s a feat to pack so much expression into such a slimness. Beautiful.’ 96 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Falstaff, January 2022.
“A firm, focused version, this swathes a chiseled spine of acidity in a raw, silky texture and finely meshed flavors of yellow peach, orange liqueur, honeycomb and chopped almond. A rich streak of salinity drives the well-cut, spiced finish. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Drink now through 2035.” 94 points, Wine Spectator, Sept 2022
‘The 2015 Brut Grand Millésime is terrific. Bright and intensely floral, the 2015 bristles with all the energy that is such a signature of the Gosset house style. White flowers, mint and crushed flowers open first. If I have a critique of Gosset is that the wines can be a bit austere. That is certainly not the issue here. The 2015 is distinguished by its sweet, resonant mid-palate and terrific depth. All the elements are so nicely balanced throughout. Drink 2022–2030.’ 93 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous, November 2022
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Frederic Savart produces some of Champagne’s most thrilling wines in the quiet corner of Ecueil. From just 4 hectares he makes around a dozen Champagnes. Founded by his father in 1947, like virtually all growers they sent most of their grapes to the local Co-Op but from 2001, all grapes were kept for this tiny, ambitious estate.
The Savarts have vineyards in Ecueil and Villiers-aux-Noeuds. Ecueil soils are sand over clay, with patches of chalk, whilst Villiers tend to be much chalkier. Here they have the rare and sought after fin d’Ecueil locally known for its intense perfume and deep fruit. Chardonnay and pinot noir are grown in vineyards managed holistically, though not certified. It’s better to prevent disease through healthy vineyards, rather than treat it according to Frederic.
Winemaking is simple and the approach teases out the differences in terriors. Stainless steel ferments mostly, though more wood is being used and malolactic may be blocked, or not, depending on vintage conditions and style of wine. Reserve wines all go the malo. Dosage of up to 7grams, down to nothing, once again depending on the cuvee and style of wine desired.
The range of Champagnes is without doubt an expression of the estate’s holdings, and as such the finished wines are all quite different from one another. Most wines have a dominant component of Pinot Noir, though there is a 100% Chardonnay and 100% Pinot Noir in the range too. Ageing is kept to a minimum,to intensify fruit and structural cut. What’s compelling about Savart’s releases is their absorbing beauty – to be drunk and not just tasted. Yet every wine is so different from the last, anchored to their soils and the people who make them.