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$425.00
I like to drink Champagne, like any other wine and to not sip. I critique Champagne no differently to any other wine, the attributes of concentration, complexity of flavour, textural evenness, length of presence and the harmony of elements. So when I tasted Gosset’s Celebris Rose 2008, I knew instantly I was in the presence of greatness and alas I was tasting, not drinking. Without a doubt, my favourite and best Champagne of 2024 and beyond. Beautiful, haunting aromatics of mixed dried flowers, English summer fruits, vanilla bean, burnt butter, orange zest and savoury spice. How can a palate be so concentrated and powerful, yet delicate and light? I have no idea, but there you are. Complex fruits of red fruits, quince and hedge fruits, mingled with mint, spices and roses. Exquisitely fine and lingering beautifully a silky flow ensuring effortless drinking. I have no idea how long this will age, it’s beautiful now, here in 2024, but I’m sure another decade or 2 will prove to be profound, beautiful drinking. Waters Wine Co
‘The nose opens with a slightly floral but exquisitely scented scent of orange cake, with a hint of iron oxide appearing on the air. On the palate, the ripe apricot scent presents itself in a generous, round, full-bodied but precise body. The extremely creamy mousse underlines the sparkling freshness.’ 98 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Falstaff, December 2021.
The 2008 Brut Rosé Celebris is an absolutely gorgeous Champagne that captures the essence of the Gosset house style. Bright and ethereal in feel, the 2008 is deceptive in its first impression, but it has plenty of depth to match its decidedly regal, understated personality. The 6.5 grams of dosage feels perfectly judged, just enough to fill out the layers and avoid some of the starkness these wines can show, but not so much as to be overpowering. Crushed red berry fruit, chalk, mint and white pepper build as this finely-sculpted Rosé shows off its charms. This is beautifully done. 94 Points – Antonio Galloni
Very small production from this highly anticipated vintage after 11 years of ageing on lees. Predominantly from Chardonnay Grand Crus at 72 % with 28 % of Pinot Noir in the blend including 8 % of red wine. The villages of Avize, Aÿ, Ambonnay and Cramant are at the core of the blend and it was bottled with 6.5 grams/litre of dosage.
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Frederic Savart produces some of Champagne’s most thrilling wines in the quiet corner of Ecueil. From just 4 hectares he makes around a dozen Champagnes. Founded by his father in 1947, like virtually all growers they sent most of their grapes to the local Co-Op but from 2001, all grapes were kept for this tiny, ambitious estate.
The Savarts have vineyards in Ecueil and Villiers-aux-Noeuds. Ecueil soils are sand over clay, with patches of chalk, whilst Villiers tend to be much chalkier. Here they have the rare and sought after fin d’Ecueil locally known for its intense perfume and deep fruit. Chardonnay and pinot noir are grown in vineyards managed holistically, though not certified. It’s better to prevent disease through healthy vineyards, rather than treat it according to Frederic.
Winemaking is simple and the approach teases out the differences in terriors. Stainless steel ferments mostly, though more wood is being used and malolactic may be blocked, or not, depending on vintage conditions and style of wine. Reserve wines all go the malo. Dosage of up to 7grams, down to nothing, once again depending on the cuvee and style of wine desired.
The range of Champagnes is without doubt an expression of the estate’s holdings, and as such the finished wines are all quite different from one another. Most wines have a dominant component of Pinot Noir, though there is a 100% Chardonnay and 100% Pinot Noir in the range too. Ageing is kept to a minimum,to intensify fruit and structural cut. What’s compelling about Savart’s releases is their absorbing beauty – to be drunk and not just tasted. Yet every wine is so different from the last, anchored to their soils and the people who make them.
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This is the third release of Egly’s sole Chardonnay dominant cuvée and it’s the first release to include three vintages in the blend. The wine is drawn from a plot of vines on the south-facing slopes of Bisseuil, a village just to the east of the famous Grand Cru communes of Aÿ and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. While these […]
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