Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Brut NV (Disg 2022)

The latest rendition of Egly’s emblematic NV Brut Grand Cru is based on the 2016 vintage, and it was disgorged in spring 2021 with only one gram per liter dosage. Wafting from the glass with aromas of pear, crisp stone fruit, wheat toast and citrus oil mingled with hints of white flowers and praline, it’s full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with tangy acids, terrific mid-palate amplitude and an enlivening pinpoint mousse. The wine’s structure and ultra-low dosage mean that this is quite a tightly wound young wine, and it will merit at least a year or two on cork if readers can muster the necessary patience. 92+ points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Yet another striking release of this wine, this is made exclusively from Grand Cru vines predominantly in Ambonnay but also Bouzy and Verzenay. It’s 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay from low-yielding, perfectly tended vines that have been harvested fully ripe. Natural fermentation was with wild yeasts only and the first period of maturation (before going to bottle) lasted almost one year, with the wine remaining on its fine lees for the whole time. The wine clarified slowly and naturally—as was once typical across the region—and as such there was no fining nor filtration. Over 50% of the wine was fermented and aged in oak casks. The dosage was at three grams per litre, so extra-brut territory.

Make no mistake, even with this wine, we are already soaring to remarkable heights of quality. If Egly made only this Brut, he would still be one of the superstars of the region. Yes, the price has risen over the years, but by today’s standards it is a bargain. To put things bluntly, this is a wine that puts to shame many a prestige cuvée at considerably higher prices.