Additional information
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Bonnaire Terroirs Grand Cru Blanc de Blanc Extra Brut NV
$100.00
There is more value to be found in Champagne than just about any other French wine region. Bonnaire’s ‘entry level’ cuvee is sourced from only Grand Cru vineyards and is testament to the wisdom of blending. Complex aromatics of honey, lime, ginger, Anzac biscuit, white flowers and nectarine. Vibrant, mouth filling and fresh, with citrus peel, green olive, candlewax, cream, stewed apple and gooseberry. The Champagne’s abundance is tensioned by savory spice and a subtle phenolic grip drawing out the close. Wonderful stuff and great value. Waters Wine Co
100% Chardonnay made from a blend of 2018 and 2019 vintages for the current shipment. Fermented in stainless steel and matured on lees for minimum of 36 months, this lot disgorged in May 2023 with a low dosage of 4 g/L.
This cuvee shows the finesse capable from the chalky soils of the Côte des Blancs terroir being a blend of their 3 Grand cru villages of Cramant, Chouilly and Oiry. Oozing freshness, it shows at once great acidity and a balanced dosage enabling the aromas to express themselves freely. Very pale bright colour with fine yet intense citrus and white flower aromas. Great length in the mouth finishing on fresh and mineral notes with suppleness and balance. This Blanc de Blancs is full of character and natural elegance, with great depth and minerality. Importer’s notes
’The NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut is a clear, fresh and chalky Chardonnay from Cramant in the Côte des Blancs that opens with lovely intense and soft white fruit aromas. It is a mouth-filling, very elegant and finessed Cramant with highly digestible balance and stimulating lightness in alcohol (12%). The finish is charmingly round and fruity but also has the typical chalky texture that gives it perfect balance. This is an excellent cuvée with a delicate, salty, well-structured finish. I didn’t see a lot number on the label nor on the bottle, but this should be a pretty fresh disgorgement and is mainly based on the 2013 vintage, as Jean-Emmanuel Bonnaire told me. Tasted April 2018.’ 90 points, Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate, September 2018.
Producer Profile
Frederic Savart produces some of Champagne’s most thrilling wines in the quiet corner of Ecueil. From just 4 hectares he makes around a dozen Champagnes. Founded by his father in 1947, like virtually all growers they sent most of their grapes to the local Co-Op but from 2001, all grapes were kept for this tiny, ambitious estate.
The Savarts have vineyards in Ecueil and Villiers-aux-Noeuds. Ecueil soils are sand over clay, with patches of chalk, whilst Villiers tend to be much chalkier. Here they have the rare and sought after fin d’Ecueil locally known for its intense perfume and deep fruit. Chardonnay and pinot noir are grown in vineyards managed holistically, though not certified. It’s better to prevent disease through healthy vineyards, rather than treat it according to Frederic.
Winemaking is simple and the approach teases out the differences in terriors. Stainless steel ferments mostly, though more wood is being used and malolactic may be blocked, or not, depending on vintage conditions and style of wine. Reserve wines all go the malo. Dosage of up to 7grams, down to nothing, once again depending on the cuvee and style of wine desired.
The range of Champagnes is without doubt an expression of the estate’s holdings, and as such the finished wines are all quite different from one another. Most wines have a dominant component of Pinot Noir, though there is a 100% Chardonnay and 100% Pinot Noir in the range too. Ageing is kept to a minimum,to intensify fruit and structural cut. What’s compelling about Savart’s releases is their absorbing beauty – to be drunk and not just tasted. Yet every wine is so different from the last, anchored to their soils and the people who make them.
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