With its depth of blackcurrant, meaty, liquoricey fruit, this wine is a step up in intensity and complexity from the entry level Saint-Joseph. Seldom have we seen this wine looking so elegant and precise so early in its life. It’s an impressive young Cuminaille from one of the most privileged sites of Saint-Joseph. It’s an east-facing, walled, single vineyard on Chavanay’s granite soils and it produces one of the most distinctive wines of the appellation each year.
When Gaillard bought this 3-hectare site, he had to choose between the Clos de Cuminaille and the now renowned La Turque vineyard in Côte-Rôtie, a site that he had helped plant. He passed on La Turque! He simply felt the Clos de Cuminaille was the better site–due to a combination of its steep, east exposition and openness to the north wind–which gives you an idea of why it produces some pretty special wines. The vines here are now almost 30-years-old and there is 30% new oak in the élevage.