Domaine la Remejeanne Cotes du Rhone Un Air 2023

Certified organic. 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah. All the fruit for Olivier Klein’s killer-value entry-level Côtes du Rhône grows on the estate’s highland, sandy limestone vineyards set around the hamlet of Sabran. Olivier aims for a vin de soif with this wine—juicy, floating fruit and sweetly floral perfumes. To this end, following a five-day cold soak, the wines spend only a brief time on skins, seldom more than a week, and Olivier also incorporates a more significant number of whole bunches (50% this year) in his ferments for more lift and buoyant, bunchy structure. Aged in concrete and bottled within a year of harvest, it’s a vibrant and perfumed Grenache-led Côtes du Rhône oozing pristine red-berry fruit, a jubey palate and a crisply refreshing close. Dee-light-ful. A lighter tread than the ’22 and more lifted, too, it is already singing with the perfume and charm of the best virtues of high-country Grenache.