Biodynamic Pinot Noir from 100-year-old vines. Irancy is a small hamlet, with a little over 300 inhabitants, situated roughly equidistant between Auxerre and Chablis. The vineyards, interspersed with cherry orchards, are planted on slopes of Kimmeridgian limestone mixed with red clays. These highly mineral soils and the northern climate help to give these Pinots incredible energy, brightness and a tangy, chiselled minerality. Goisot has a paltry 0.5-hectares in the lieu-dit of Les Mazelots and, in the context of Irancy, the wine that results is an aristocrat. Having 100-year-old vines no doubt helps the cause! These are some of the oldest Pinot vines in France (the world in fact) and produce outstanding, super mineral/savoury wines with tongue-hugging tannins. The 2015 is much fleshier and more seductive than normal. It’s wonderfully aromatic with a lifted perfume of small red fruits and violets while the palate dances with strawberry, anise and dark cherry fruit animated by powdery yet supple tannins. If you value perfume and charm over brute force in your red Burgundy, you need to be trying this.