Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs 2017

This is Mortet’s ‘super Gevrey’, from an outstanding clutch of five brilliantly placed terroirs that Denis Mortet deliberately chose for the quality of their terroirs and vines. The vineyards include En Motrot, situated between the church and Château de Gevrey-Chambertin, close to Clos Saint-Jacques; Au Vellé, very close-by under Petits Cazetiers; La Combe du Dessus, situated at the top of the Brochon slope just north-east of Gevrey itself; En Champs directly below Gevrey’s 1er Cru Champeaux (the vines here are over 70 years old); and En Dérée, below En Champs on the Brochon border.

Only 30% new barrels were used here and 15% whole bunches. This is simply outstanding and would have no problem passing for 1er status in a blind line up.

The five terroirs in question here are Champ, En Derée, Vellé, Combes du Dessus and En Motrot, all of which are on the north side of Gevrey-Chambertin. This is always one of the best village Gevreys on the market, easily as good as many producers’ premiers crus. With 15% whole bunches and 30% new wood, this is a balanced, spicy, pithy red with glossy tannins, freshness and stylish oak. 93 points, Tim Atkin MW, Decanter