As of the 2016 vintage, Vissoux’s emblematic Cuvée Traditionnelle Vieilles Vignes has been relabeled as Cuvée Origine Vieilles Vignes. Vissoux’s exemplary old vines bottling was first crafted in 1986 at the behest of Jean Brouilly, the then Michelin-starred chef of Tarare restaurant. The idea behind this wine when it was first produced was to be a counter reaction to the prevailing, highly industrial tendencies in Beaujolais of the time. It’s a hand-picked, old-vine, low-yield wine fermented with whole bunches and natural yeasts. Unchaptalised, made with low sulphur, and unfiltered. Even by today’s much improved standards, this remains an atypically traditional, non-Cru Beaujolais at a great price.
Sourced from four hectares in Saint-Vérand with vines sited on a pocket of dark granite – a soil that partly accounts for the wine’s ‘Cru-level’ depth and minerality. The 35 to 85 year old vines produce a considerably deeper, plumper, silkier wine than the entry-level Griottes. The 2017 is a smoky and juicy dark cherry-and-raspberry-noted wine with sappy freshness and a nice, crunchy finish.
“A superb wine, the 2017 Beaujolais-Villages Origine unfurls in the glass with a classy bouquet of smoky cassis, plums and subtle notions of loamy soil. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, juicy and ample, with supple tannins, succulent acids and impressive concentration, concluding with a mouthwatering, flavorful finish.” 91 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“Vivid magenta. Mineral-accented red/dark berry aromas pick up a sexy floral quality and a hint of smokiness with air. Concentrated yet lively in style, offering juicy blackberry, bitter cherry and succulent herb flavors that show very good clarity and back-end cut. Reveals a touch of candied licorice on the subtly tannic finish, which lingers with strong persistence.” 91 points, Josh Raynolds, Vinous