It is not often we get to taste a wine that is as fine and elegant on the one hand. And on the other hand? Wild intensity coupled with a mineral, earthy, gamey complexity. There really is nothing else like it in Beaujolais. Jean-Paul Thevenet has made one of his grandest wines with this Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2018. Crashing red fruits, savoury spice, mouth-watering minerals and a trufflesque funk that will become more pronounced with age. Despite the pulse and animal exoticism, silken tannins tease the palate, with a sprinkling of razor sharp acidity. Magnificent power and heavenly weightlessness.
A plume of exotic spice, peat sweetness, dark cherry and dried roses. It’s dense, spicy, deep curry-like flavour, laced with aniseed and potpourri, melting tannin, stony texture and a slightly wild-arsed edge, but still pure, and so charismatic. Long and succulent. Beautiful unfettered expression of Gamay. So highly recommended. 95 points, Gary Walsh – The Winefront