Duras is a variety of France’s south-west that almost disappeared during the 1960s, and today is found pretty much exclusively in Gaillac, bar two small parcels found further up the river Tarn. If it weren’t for the Plageoles’ resuscitation of Prunelart and Mauzac Noir, Duras would certainly be the oldest vine variety still grown in Gaillac today. Thanks to Bernard Plageoles’ outspoken lobbying for this variety, it is now the most commonly planted of all of Gaillac’s traditional red grape varieties and this wine shows you why. It comes from a parcel of 40-year-old goblet vines on the limestone and clay of Cahuzac-sur-Vère in the heart of the Gaillac country. The yields are very low, the fruit is hand harvested and the winemaking is very simple – spontaneous fermentation, only a single pump over, aged in cement tank for one year, then bottled without fining or filtration. Duras is a darker, savoury, more animal-like wine than Braucol and this 2015 is deliciously rich in macerated cherry, blackberry and spicy fruit with herb, game meat and peppery spice complexing the picture. There is a lovely pulpy texture kept fresh by bloody, ferrous notes and powdery tannins. This wild edge is absolutely typical of the variety, as are the firmer tannins (which are particularly integrated this year).